THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Arbutus Awards

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Arbutus Restaurant Review:

Arbutus began by offering value for the money, and Anthony Demetre and Will Smith’s restaurant is still up with the front runners. The odd-shaped establishment has two moods: one room has a tall marble counter with bar stools; the second is more conventional with tables and a leather banquette along one wall. There’s bright modern art on the walls and pretty beechwood tables. It’s the chic backdrop for inventive seasonal cooking, using an imaginative mix of ingredients. Try starters of hand-chopped Scottish beef tartare with oyster mayonnaise, or the perennial favorite of braised pigs' head with potato purée and pickled turnip. Main dishes might include stone bass with salsify, chanterelles and parsley, or saddle of rabbit with salsify, young carrots and slow-cooked shoulder ‘croquettes.’ Desserts are classics like hot pear clafoutis with stem ginger ice cream or warm apple tarte Tatin. The small wine list is skillfully chosen with every bottle available by the 250ml carafe. Staff is charming; the cooking is very good indeed. Set working lunch and pre-theatre menu: 2-course £23; 3 courses £26.