Cumin

Cumin Restaurant Review:

With its bustling dining room and food that goes beyond the basics, this Wicker Park gem is an oasis for weary curry critics and samosa snobs who are fed up with cookie-cutter Indian eateries. The mammoth, 100-plus-item menu pacifies purists with familiar Indian classics, but also touts an inspired selection of lesser-known (to American palates) Nepalese dishes. We’re hooked on the chicken momo, a traditional street food of Nepal that’s dished up as an appetizer of eight steamed mini-dumplings stuffed with minced chicken and herbs and doused with a creamy orange Himalayan sauce. Alternatively, you might start with goat chhoela, heady with herbs and spices and cooked in the tandoor. Of note, most Nepalese entrées, like palungo ko saag --- sautéed spinach leaves with a trio of aromatic cumin, mustard and fenugreek seeds --- are vegetarian-friendly and so flavorful that carnivores won’t miss the meat. Indian flatbreads are a must-try, too; rather than painstakingly selecting one from the lot of 12, opt for the assortment, which teems with pillowy naan and includes the delectable cottage cheese-stuffed paneer kulcha. We suggest complementing your feast with a brew. Try the Kingfisher, a smooth lager that balances the cuisine’s savory spiciness. For a sampling of what’s available, come for the lunch buffet.