: There is much to enjoy here. One of our favorite choices is the vegetarian dégustation menu, a field-of-dreams affair that might start with a fine white asparagus soup and end with an assortment of sorbets and fresh fruits. In between there is a salad of organic greens, ragoût of fresh cèpes and a selection of cheeses. On the other hand, if you are flush with the thought of lush, why not start with Beluga caviar parfait over lobster ceviche, or sautéed Hudson Valley duck liver with Black Mission figs, then move on to an entrée of sautéed guinea hen with artichoke purée. Possibly a classic for dessert? The Grand Marnier soufflé, please. The atmosphere is hushed, and the two-level room is as plush (Edwardian meets Louis XIV) as the menu. The service is good overall (notice we did not say exemplary), and the outstanding wine list offers a wide range of vintages. The Sunday brunch is a spectacular affaire du buffet.

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