Drift Fish House & Oyster Bar
4475 Roswell Rd., Ste. 1410 (Maxwell Dr.) 
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Cuisine
Open
Dinner Tues.-Sun.Features
- Parking lot
- Dress code: Casual dressy
- Full bar
- Heart-healthy dishes
- Outdoor dining
- Private room(s)
- Reservations suggested
- Romantic setting
- Wheelchair accessible
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: Doug Turbush, whose other establishments are The Seed Kitchen & Bar and Stem Wine Bar, is behind this fish and seafood establishment, headed by executive chef Brendan Keenan. The interior, by Atlanta's own ai3, melds wood and stone materials and assorted visual embellishments. An artful arrangement of oars dangles overhead just to the right of the open kitchen. Above the bar, a sweep of white banners, suggesting either an ocean wave, sails or perhaps a fishing net, dips toward bar patrons. Start with the creamy she-crab soup, a low country specialty, dotted with lump crab and croutons, but omit the tracing of chili oil as it interferes with the delicate flavors. The menu offers lots of Southern nods, such as New Orleans barbecued shrimp, a cheese-covered version of oysters Rockefeller and gumbo. Fried oysters (we'd advocate a lighter coating) come with sauce gribiche, a classic sauce rarely resurrected. Besides wood-grilled seafood, there's fish and chips; crab-dressed pasta; and shrimp and grits, served with a poached egg. A burger, a chicken selection and a pair of steaks depart from the seafood theme, and vegetable sides may compose a fine non-protein plate. For dessert, go for the deconstructed molten lava cake, an updated version of another classic with an almond ice cream. |
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