THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Eastside Inn

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Eastside Inn Restaurant Review:

There was a buzz surrounding the opening of Eastside Inn, the restaurant of chef Bjorn van der Horst and his wife Justine, who runs the front of the house. The chef went from Picholine in New York and Gaia in Connecticut to The Greenhouse in London, and a short stint in Gordon Ramsay’s La Noisette. Then up he pops in a smart, City-style restaurant and bistro in Farringdon near St. John. Eastside is in two parts: to the right is the smart bit, to the left an equally swish bistro around an open kitchen. The former is an awkward-shaped room with big windows at one end and bold modern art on the walls. The fireworks are in the cooking, which is inventive and highly skillful with the odd slip that a tightrope walker like this chef risks. Whichever menu you choose, three small tasters kick off; the fromage de tête with caviar is the winner. Then follows delights like smoked prawns and tomato sorbet with almond gazpacho poured over it; braised veal sweetbreads with red mustard and dandelion on top; and pork belly with mussels and pesto and a mussel broth. Go for the impressive desserts, particularly the French meringue which arrives as a sphere with touches of gold leaf. A flambéed liqueur poured over it breaks it up to reveal black cherries and hazelnut. The service is professional; the wine list veers towards the expensive, but take the advice of the charming sommelier for some unexpected treats like pink Champagne to go with the Stinking Bishop cheese. The bistro is more expensive than you would expect, but again standards are very high. Restaurant set menus £55, £70. Business Express lunch 2 courses £25, 3 courses £35.