Fondue Cowboy

Fondue Cowboy Restaurant Review:

Fondue is one of those relics from the ’70s that, despite universal popularity, is, well, kind of cheesy. However, Fondue Cowboy---a hip little space in the city’s SoMa neighborhood---manages to bring a modern perspective to this vintage cuisine. The cheese fondue selection is surprisingly diverse: The Traditional, is just that, a sharp, rich nutty pool of Swiss-only cheeses (Gruyère and Emmental), white wine and nutmeg; the Outlaw breaks all fondue’s rules with its robust mix of cheddar, beer, roasted tomatoes, garlic, jalapeño and cilantro. Accoutrements are a diverse and crunchy selection of gerkins, Greek olives, broccoli florets, green apple and crostini. Sausage can be added à la carte and is highly recommended. Order responsibly, however, to save room for desserts such as the intense dark chocolate fondue kicked up with cayenne, with fruit, cubed mini-marshmallows, madeleines and pieces of local Pinkie’s Bakery rolls. The eatery features a minimalist Western theme---a silkscreen of Clint Eastwood watches over diners seated on leather ottomans at low tables. The wine list is modest and mainly Californian. An ample beer selection favors local microbrews.