: A change in ownership enhanced the authenticity of the cooking at this long-established suburban Japanese restaurant. Dishes that one doesn't often see at other places range from the filling Hiroshima-style noodle pancake (okonomiyaki) to chawan mushi (savory custard) and six types of ramen. We favor the tonkotsu with its rich, creamy broth. Robata cooked appetizers include a succulent and sweet miso cod. Classic sushi and sashimi join first-rate vegetable dishes such as traditional seaweed and gomaae (cold cooked spinach with sesame sauce). Skewers of grilled pork belly, with sweet fat intertwined against lean meat (kushiyaki), make one crave more of the same. There's plenty of familiar tempura and other items, too. Fried ice cream is offered for dessert. Wine gets short shrift, but one really needs to go with a good chilled saké or one of several Japanese beers.

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