THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Hyde Park Grille

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Hyde Park Grille Restaurant Review:

Rome wasn’t built in a day, and neither was a steakhouse with Hyde Park Grille’s ambitions and complexity. The kitchen crew and the service staff don’t achieve the quality of food and service that the restaurant’s commendable design calls for. A honeycomb of rooms creates intimate yet lively dining spaces. The brown-leather banquettes are the cushiest in town, and the dark-wood walls have just the right luster. The view from the window tables along St. Charles Avenue, with its picturesque old streetcars, is as soothing as a shoulder massage. The handsome environment only serves to magnify the menu’s inconsistencies. Dry-aged steaks of supposedly excellent quality can show up lacking both moistness and (curiously) flavor, begging for a dose of bordelaise or another of the sauces offered. Fish and shellfish fare somewhat better---especially if the dish at hand is a simply prepared salmon in an uncomplicated beurre blanc. A pair of top-grade baked pork chops contained the hearty goodness New Orleans gastronomy is known for. If only the salmon and pork were typical of the kitchen’s repertoire.