Le Penguin

Le Penguin Restaurant Review:

Le Penguin exudes a fresh, bright seaside airiness. A white-washed brick façade and the restaurant’s name in bold blue lettering above give way to a quaint interior characterized by a vivid blue and yellow ochre color scheme that helps to create a certain vibrancy to the setting. The place’s logo is a jolly Emperor penguin, and a model of one stands in greeting at the front door. In a sense it denotes the atmosphere, which is one of rusticity with touches of polish. Antoine Blech (Opia in Manhattan) had a considerable space to occupy, one that left a void with the departure of Restaurant Jean-Louis, its former occupant. However, Le Penguin is no Jean-Louis. It encompasses an entirely different culinary concept comprised of creative takes on traditional dishes. Appetizers range from classic bistro standards like escargots and pissaladière to Italian-accented starters such as wild mushroom ravioli and an artichoke salad with arugula and Parmesan. Main courses present a revolving roster of fish, perhaps a crispy red snapper, and traditional specialties, think steak tartare. A carefully chosen French regional wine list pairs well with the fare, and a bottle of white from the Rhône or the Loire Valley would be a fine complement to some of the vegetable and fish selections. Desserts including tarte Tatin and lemon tart provide a fruity and zesty end to the meal.