Portofino

Portofino Restaurant Review:

Rustic, seasonal and regional Italian fare stars at this Buckhead restaurant. The comfortable setting is enhanced by a respectable noise level, flattering but not too dim lighting and well-spaced tables. Local artist Steve Penley, known for his Neo-Impressionist portraits of famous people, has two large paintings in Portofino. In one, the kindly visage of Georgia naive artist Howard Finster graces the dining room, while Penley's portrait of Ernest Hemingway in his later years fixes an austere gaze over bar patrons. Chef Andre Brookins’ menu keeps faith with classic preparations, taking little license with authenticity. "Made in house" is the kitchen’s mantra. The traditional meal starter is soup. In summer, it might be basil corn bisque or a vegetable minestrone, while white bean may visit in winter. Moving into autumn, the butternut squash version is a hit, especially with a glass of Gavi. Pasta is a good entrée, especially the lamb bolognese on rigatoni. Half portions for $5 less than the stated price are plenty for a small main dish for late-night dining. Otherwise, selections include fish and also a tender veal scaloppine on Parmesan polenta. Desserts range from panna cotta accented with fruit to gelati and sorbetti; the pine nut honey tart is a standout. The wine list gathers notable Italian labels, but additional wine-producing regions are represented as well and a number are offered by the glass.