The Restaurant at the Durham

The Restaurant at the Durham Restaurant Review:

Andrea Reusing, chef/owner of Chapel Hill’s Lantern restaurant, has a second enterprise, for which she has created an American menu emphasizing the variety of locally produced fruits, vegetables, cheeses and meats found in Durham’s farmers markets. The modernist-style dining room abides in the lobby of a boutique hotel that is the current occupant of a repurposed downtown bank building. The restaurant’s abstract primary-colored carpet makes a bold, clear and cheerful statement that reflects the kitchen’s philosophy. Start with a craft cocktail, then order raw oysters, the house-cured meat plate (big enough for sharing) or potato chips with an enchanting dip made from puréed carrots subtly flavored with sumac and coriander. Seasonal entrées range from roasted moulard duck with steamed turnips topped with slices of foie gras to a vegetable pie featuring salsify, Savoy cabbage and a variety of local mushrooms, and a filet of black bass served atop a crawfish stew and Carolina Gold rice. Seductive desserts include a grasshopper sundae and wild persimmon panna cotta with crunchy walnut shortbread cookies. The short but adequate wine list features bottles from knowledgeably chosen small vineyards in California, France and Italy. For casual nibbling, the spacious Roof, several flights up, offers burgers, fried chicken, a snack platter, beef tartare and a variety of drinks. The Durham skyline provides the view for this lively, youthful scene.