: This Queen Village hideaway has the moody lighting and red-painted tin ceiling that suggest it’s always been right here. Not to mention the fact that crowds spill in to fill its closely-set tables without so much as a sign on the door. Meanwhile, the sushi created by Jesse and Masaharu Ito is its own banner --- silky tabs of toro, salmon and yellowtail over well-crafted pillows of rice. Of course, there are maki in all the usual combinations (rainbow, dragon, California). Bar eats --- from sticky, tangy wings and smoky skate jerky to fries with cod roe mayonnaise and delicate fried oysters --- are a burst of flavors and textures and range from traditional dishes to more whimsical ideas, but all are meant to be shared. For true decadence, opt for the omakase (reservation only). Drinks also shine, with a long list of Japanese whiskies, sakés (including a draft option), sochu and beer, alongside local ales and lagers.

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