THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Stephen Bull Smithfield

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Stephen Bull Smithfield Restaurant Review:

In this lively, modern place with its brightly coloured, three-dimensional art works, the Stephen Bull magic touch produces food which he calls ’grown-up’; we say it displays the finesse expected of a serious restaurant. The short menu is eclectic, not eccentric, with several dishes offered as either starters or main courses. Mediterranean contributions include lamb kofte with couscous and citrus labne, panzanella---Italian bread salad, pea and mint risotto, and the signature ’delicacies from Spain’. Eastern influence shows in caramelised pork belly with coconut and soba noodle laksa, while more difficult to pin down exotica are smoked eel with apple and celeriac; polenta-crusted skate with red onion and tomato galette; and subtly flavoured Szechuan-cured salmon with sweet mustard dressing. Guaranteed to offend both Cumbrians and Toulousians---until they taste it---is confit of duck with Cumberland cassoulet and poached leeks. The light cooking makes it easy to be tempted by such desserts as caramelised apples with Calvados cream palmier, or raspberry and white chocolate cheesecake; for more delicate appetites, homemade ice creams and sorbets are strongly recommended. Wines are always a feature of Mr. Bull’s restaurants. The English dessert wine, Thorncroft Noble Harvest 1994, is here for its quality, not for xenophobia. And there’s friendly well-trained service.