Wm. Mulherin's Sons
Italian-inspired eats, an Italo-centric wine list and inventive cocktails under the El.
Wm. Mulherin's Sons Restaurant Review:
Hipsters may have put it on the map with microbrews and gastropubs but the gentrifying neighborhood of Fishtown became a true dining destination with Wm. Mulherin’s Sons. A former whiskey bottling facility has been renovated to include both this restaurant and a boutique hotel. The warm, mid-century inspired décor emphasizes wood, exposed brick, sculptural lighting fixtures and striking artwork. Dishes have included veal tartare toasts, dressed in a briny Caesar drizzle with grilled lettuce; silky scallop crudo with black truffle oil and uni; colatura-crusted pork ribs remixed with Thai flavors. With masterly pizza and pastas serving as the middle course, there’s no saving room --- there’s simply enjoying more. Among the must-try dishes are the creamy based primavera pizza topped with morels, peas and pancetta, and the delicate pigs head tortelonni spiked with rosemary and black pepper. Yet again, the grilled meats like a lamb steak with mixed bean salad are equally impressive. For dessert, try the coffee pot de crème with dulce de leche and hazelnuts. The Italo-centric wine list is expansive enough to include an “orange” section, with plenty of challenging selections and lesser-seen varietals. Meanwhile, the cocktails honor the building’s history with sure-handed invention.
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