Nowhere sums up the myriad expressions of modern Southeast Asia as well as Bangkok. At first glance the Thai capital is a sprawling mess of shimmering skyscrapers and moving metal, a place where few buildings seem old and new buildings are going up everywhere. But while Bangkok is undoubtedly Thailand's fast-beating heart, step out of the traffic and you'll also find the kingdom's soul among the golden palace spires and vividly colored temples.
The City of Angels (as Bangkok was called by
a buddha and king) revels in such head-spinning contrasts: you can eat at the world's best street-food stalls or on vertigo-inducing rooftops sixty stories up; travel above the city on the ultra-modern SkyTrain and along the river and canals by boat; watch the grace and beauty of dancers in classic Thai costume or the less traditional moves (and costumes) on the city's infamous strips of sleaze. Bangkok's extremes are tied together by the concept of sanuk, or fun, that gives Bangkok its distinct Thai spice. Thais think nothing is worth doing without an element of sanuk, so expect wide smiles, flirtatious glances and general good humor at every turn.
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The stunning lobby of the Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok |
Bangkok was little more than a riverside trading village before then-capital Ayutthaya was sacked by Burmese invaders in 1767. The royal court fled south and, in 1782, the first king of the Chakri Dynasty—which continues to reign today—chose Bangkok and the surrounding rice fields as the site of his grand new capital. Since then the city has expanded outwards and upwards and its concrete towers and thoroughfares are now home to more than 10 million people. Despite nineteen coups d'etat, both successful and otherwise, since 1932, the city competes with Singapore to be the business center of Southeast Asia.
Bangkok is home to hotels, restaurants and spas that would stand their ground in any city on earth, without costing you the earth. Standouts include the legendary Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok and the more moderately priced but very worthy Triple Two Silom hotel.
DAY 1
The Bangkok sprawl can seem intimidating, but the city's historic center occupies a mercifully compact area on Ko Rattanakosin that is ideal for walking. And it's here you should come on your first morning, to get a taste of the old Bangkok and the royal and religious institutions that still underpin Thai culture. Dress to cover your legs and shoulders—this counts for both men and women—to ensure you can enter the sights.
Avoid the horrific morning traffic by taking a river ferry from Saphan Thaksin north to Wang Lang pier, then a cross-river ferry to Phra Chan. Ko Rattanakosin (Rattanakosin Island) was the first part of Bangkok to be developed when the area became the capital in 1782. Rama I, the first king of the Chakri dynasty, had a canal dug around the area to form an island city, which he set about filling with palaces, temples and ministries. While the royals have moved on, the glittering palaces and temples remain.
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| Shopping in Bangkok is a colorful experience |
Start your exploration by wandering through the narrow lanes of the Amulet Market, where tiny amulets are scrutinized to determine their protective powers amid an aromatic mix of fragrances wafting out of the traditional medicine stores and riverside kitchens.
Continue south along Maharat Street to the imposing white walls and gold spires of the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew (aka the Temple of the Emerald Buddha). Situated inside the same wall, the palace and temple represent the spiritual core of both the monarchy and Thai Buddhism. The union is symbolized in Thailand's most revered image, the petite Emerald Buddha, which is the main draw. The 66cm-high image, which has been fought over for centuries, is mounted high above the temple floor and cut from a solid block of jade, not emerald. The palace compound consists of several buildings that were once strictly divided along gender and social lines; one housed the king's harem, which under Rama III grew to an exhausting 242 wives. The largest is the attractive if incongruous Chakri Maha Prasat, which is essentially an Italian Renaissance-style palace with Thai-style pointed roofs. The palace is still used for ceremonial occasions so most buildings must be admired from the outside.
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A closer look at the Royal Palace |
Turning right as you leave the palace, cross Sanam Chai Road and continue east about 200 yards to a canal, cross the footbridge and you're at Phraeng Nara Road, a quiet strip of historic shop houses where Bangkok bureaucrats have been eating for more than a century. You won't see many tourists here, but the small restaurants serve delicious, traditionally-prepared Thai food. Find a dish that appeals, and save room for a dessert of khanom beuang, tiny taco lookalikes that come in two subtle, delicious forms— sweet (orange colored) and savory. Find them at Khanom Beuang Phraeng Nara, a tiny shop on the right that you'll recognize for its two coal-burning stoves.
Re-cross the canal, turn left and cut through the shaded, English-style Saranrom Royal Garden to reach Wat Pho. Dating from the 16th century but largely rebuilt in the early 19th century, this monastery is the oldest and largest in Bangkok. The awe-inspiring highlight is the 50-yard-long, 17-yard-high Reclining Buddha, which is probably the most photographed Buddha image in Thailand. In the temple grounds, don't miss the Chinese statues and stupas covered in countless fragments of broken ceramics; Chinese merchants carried the fragments as ballast before offloading them to make room for the return cargo. Wat Pho was Thailand's first university and today it serves as the national training center of Thai massage, making it the perfect place to stop for an invigorating afternoon rub at the Wat Pho Thai Traditional Massage School; ask for the air-conditioned rooms down the road.
Suitably refreshed, head a couple of minutes back up Maharat Road, turn left into the paved Soi Pratu Nok Yung and walk to the rooftop Amarosa Bar, where you can sip cocktails as the sun sets over the river and the grand stupa of Wat Arun. After drinks, head downstairs for a Thai or Mediterranean dinner at The Deck, or take a short taxi ride up to Tha Maharat (Maharat Pier) for a boat across to one of the dinner theatre venues on the far bank—take your pick from modern dance at Studio 9, or traditional dance, not-so-spicy Thai cuisine and views of the palace and Wat Arun at Supatra River House (performances Friday to Sunday nights only).
Continue
to Day 2
