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Three days gets you a taste of the unique mix of historic richness, casual beach culture and growing modernity that is Charleston. The city is known as The Holy City because of her many churches. Along with outlying towns such as Mount Pleasant and other island communities, the area is at its best in spring for azalea season and in the late fall. Spring may seem obvious, but in fall, the punishing heat of summer breaks; the most nail-biting weeks of hurricane season are over and brilliant sunshine flickers off the marsh and creates a glow behind the cityscape at sunset. Founded in 1670 as Charles Towne, the oldest English city south of Virginia, it was initially established on a spot populated by giant alligators and thick with virgin forests festooned in Spanish moss. A decade later, the settlers moved to the peninsula formed by the Ashley and Cooper (pronounced locally as "cuppah") rivers. Wealthy almost from its inception, Charleston took its current name in 1783. The city played historic roles in both the American Revolution and the Civil War. Sites abound for anyone eager to see the spots where so many important events took place. Heavily damaged by an earthquake in 1886, with the loss of some 2,000 buildings, Charleston's historic structures often show signs of the post-earthquake repairs that were accomplished. That's why you'll see earthquake bars and rods on some of them. The tremor was so severe, it's said to have drained the water out of the butterfly lakes at Middleton Place, one of the sights to see during your three-day visit.
It's possible to enjoy Charleston without a car, but you'll only get to "Downtown," which is half the picture. The other half is the islands, the historic river plantations and the surrounding nature-focused activities. Staying focused on the Historic District, Planters Inn, one of only two South Carolina Relais et Chateaux properties, is located in the middle of the action and houses Peninsula Grill, one of Charleston's best restaurants. Nearby, the Charleston Place also captures one of the city's best restaurants, while allowing guests the opportunity to shop in an enclosed mall. The other end of Market Street boasts the Market Pavilion Hotel, whose main attraction is on the rooftop bar, offering the best view Downtown has to offer, plus, a delicious array of upscale cocktails and appetizers. No matter where you stay, if you arrive in the afternoon, this is the perfect first stop on a Charleston tour. Visitors with families will want to consider the Embassy Suites Historic District for its convenient location, its family-focused amenities and its own historic ambiance. You'll find during your Peninsula-centered stay that the bicycle-powered "rickshaws" are easily the best way to get from one place to another, particularly if it's hot and a long walk proves to be a little too sweaty. They're easy to find, not particularly expensive and quick enough to get you to a destination while allowing you to experience the historic beauty of the city. For those more tour-minded, there are horse-drawn carriage tours that start near the Market. DAY 1 Level and easy to stroll, Charleston invites walking, so grab a map at the visitor's center on John Street and start out with a brisk pre-breakfast walk to Hominy Grill, perhaps the best eye-opening meal in the city. Go north on Meeting Street to Marion Square Park (note the tall statue honoring Revolutionary War hero Francis Marion), and turn left on Calhoun Street, continuing to Rutledge Avenue, then turn right for another four blocks. The place opens at 7:30 a.m., so you can plan an early morning jaunt while it's still cool, and return well fortified for the rest of the day.
Get a good orientation of the city and its history with Charleston Walks, a walking tour outfit that offers theme-focused walking excursions, most of which take a couple of hours and cover less than a mile at an easy pace (www.charlestonwalks.com). If you've worked off breakfast at this point, and are ready for lunch, check out Cru Café, between Meeting Street and East Bay, for a light but intriguing meal and a bit of a rest. Charleston's museums have plenty to offer for both adults and children. Adults will find interesting history at The Charleston Museum and great art at The Gibbes Museum. Established in 1773, the Charleston Museum holds an honored place in the history of American museums, as it claims to be the nation's first. Founded as the Carolina Art Association in1858, The Gibbes Museum of Art opened to the public in 1905 and today houses more than 10,000 works of mostly American art with a Charleston or other Southern association. Visit at least one historic house museum to appreciate the quality of life that upper-crust 19th-century Charlestonians enjoyed. Interpretive programs also illuminate the lifestyles of the slaves and servants who not only served as domestics but also frequently worked on the construction of these fine old homes. Open daily; the Nathaniel Russell House on Meeting Street is an excellent choice. Built in 1808, the handsome Federal townhouse with its formal gardens is a National Historic Landmark. With little people in tow, the Children's Museum of the Lowcountry offers a full-scale shrimp boat for exploration, giving children a taste of the history of the area. The South Carolina Aquarium at Charleston Harbor exhibits local sea and wildlife, and features an IMAX theater.
Top off this busy day with dinner at Charleston Grill, whose soothing ambiance and exciting food will be the ideal capstone for your introduction to Charleston. After dinner, enjoy the city's varied nightlife. Throughout the Historic District, very fine bars provide opportunities for a break and an excellent glass of wine. The bar at Cypress on East Bay Street features a futuristic style grounded with the history of its building, a combination that is as engaging as the lobster bisque with white shrimp. Raval serves Spanish-style tapas and little sandwiches. A cozy place, it pulls in a fairly mature but definitely fun crowd. And near the corner of East Bay and Faber streets, you'll find Social Wine Bar, a spiffy contemporary spot with a sophisticated wine list. The excellent wine choices are served at proper temperatures and in first-rate glassware. For the blue-jean crowd seeking live music, The Music Farm and Cumberlands, both in the Upper King District, offer everything from jam bands to hard rock. The drinks are served in plastic cups. Other popular downscale joints include Charleston BeerWorks and A.C's—great for those who love to play a lot of pool and don't mind smoke.
* Aerial Landscape, Gibbes Museum and Middleton Place Gardens images courtesy of the Charleston Area CVB
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