The glitz and glam of Newport Beach is real no matter how TV shows (The OC, Real Housewives of Orange County) portray this California seaside power town. Newport really is home to million-dollar mansions, luxury cars, designer fashion and power partying. However, Newport is also full of families, quaint eateries and lazy days by the shore.
Sandwiched along the Southern California coast between Los Angeles (50 miles to the north) and San Diego (80 miles to the south), Newport Beach sits along a stretch of superbly scenic coastline. Locals live here for the almost always sunny skies, the rolling blue Pacific, the rocky shores and the gleaming white sands.
Hollywood has been coming here for fun and frolic (and to build multi-million-dollar mansions) for decades. Legendary actors, from yesteryear's James Cagney to today's Nicholas Cage, live and play in Newport Beach. Cowboy John Wayne may be Newport's most famous past resident, evidenced by the fact that the region's airport is named after The Duke. From a new Cesar Pelli-designed concert hall and the regenerated Orange County Museum of Art to the billion-dollar surf wear design industry, there's much more to the county between San Diego and Los Angeles than flip flops and bikinis.
Many who live in the Southland know that Newport Beach is just a car's drive away. If you do fly, try to land at John Wayne Airport (SNA). Renting a car is essential as suburban living in Orange County does not include public transportation. Two other options are to fly into either Long Beach Airport (LGB) or Los Angeles International Airport (LAX), rent a car and get ready to make the hour's drive (or longer, depending on LA's infamous traffic.)
The city of Newport Beach consists of several villages: Balboa Island, Balboa Peninsula, Airport District, Back Bay, Fashion Island, Corona del Mar, Newport Coast, Crystal Cove, Lido and Cannery Village. The fact that almost every inch of Newport's beachfront property is filled with upscale private residences makes for a shortage of hotels directly on the sand.
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The Balboa Bay Club & Resort |
The Balboa Bay Club & Resort, a historical property and former private club, sits on Newport Harbor in an exclusive area off Pacific Coast Highway known as Mariner's Mile. The property, which does claim a small stretch of sand, offers 132 elegant rooms and suites. Top-notch amenities include a spa, pool and acclaimed cuisine and wine.
The Fairmont Newport Beach is situated far from the shore, but closer to the region's business districts. Located right across from John Wayne Airport, the property boasts designer rooms, a rooftop saline pool and modern amenities like flat-screen TVs and wireless Internet access. The hotel's new Willow Stream Spa features hand-tiled showers and deep soaking pools in every treatment room.
Fashion Island, a shopping mall on a hill overlooking the ocean, is also home to two luxury hotels. Newport's elite and jet setters alike show up to The Island Hotel for its secluded locale, classy décor, fine dining, lounge entertainment and intimate spa. The nearby Newport Beach Marriott Hotel & Spa has a lot to offer too with scenic hilltop views, rather nice rooms, classic East Coast dining, world-class spa and three outdoor pools.
The Hyatt Regency Newport Beach is another good choice, although this place seems more like a modest hotel rather than a luxury resort. The décor is outdated and some of the furnishings are even shabby, although the its Sol restaurant has recently been renovated. However, this property does shine as the home to the Hyatt Regency Newport Beach Summer Jazz Festival, which draws A-list smooth jazz acts.
For something really different, opt for the Newport Dunes Waterfront Resort. Part of this fancy trailer park is inhabited permanently by beach devotees, but those traveling in an RV can rent a space by the night. Family-style cottages are also available for rent, plus there's a small market, a boat launch and a rather good café.
DAY 1
Newport Harbor is the jewel of the city and deserves to be the first stop on any sightseeing excursion of Newport Beach. No matter where you're staying, start out by driving south on Jamboree Boulevard and right onto Balboa Island. This tiny, manmade island is home to cute cottages and million-dollar mansions. Many stop for breakfast at Wilma's Patio, a charming morning spot with mostly American fare. For the latest in sophisticated and surf fashion, as well as home décor and restaurants with lots of character, take a leisurely walk along Balboa Island's tiny Marine Avenue.
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Entrance to Newport Harbor
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Next, for only $1 or so, drive your vehicle or walk onto the Auto Ferry. The three-minute ride over Newport Harbor and onto Balboa Peninsula affords visitors spectacular views of the harbor and nearby hills. Sadly, the famed Fun Zone on Balboa Peninsula has closed and is now the Newport Nautical Museum. Happily, however, Balboa's Ferris wheel remains. If you didn't catch your morning meal on Balboa Island, walk out to the breathtaking end of Balboa Pier for an American-style meal at Ruby's Diner. Right on the water's edge, this circa 1940s diner offers contemporary American cuisine.
The best way to view Newport Harbor is from the water, and Balboa Boat Rentals sits right next to the Auto Ferry landing on Balboa Peninsula. There's a whole fleet of self-propelled boats and kayaks for rental by the hour. The fully-enclosed Duffy boats can seat up to eight passengers and are outfitted with a large dining table and cup holders. Balboa Boat Rentals provides its drivers with a fairly detailed map of the harbor's sites as well as restaurants and public piers. If you can plan ahead, bring food and wine onto the boat for a family picnic, romantic dinner or even a poker party. There are also romantic boat rides offered by Gondola Romance or larger cruises via Hornblower's fleet of party ships.
Only three restaurants in Newport Harbor allow boats to dock. At Bluewater Grill, owner Jimmy “U” may come down to the dock and help you with the ropes himself. If you ask, the chef will come out to explain the day's mesquite-grilled catch or how he sautées the perfect crab cake. The menu also offers traditional New England dishes such as chowders and fish'n chips, but there's also contemporary cuisine like sashimi and seasonal salads. Other dockside choices are The Cannery and The Arches on the Water.
After your boat ride and luncheon, set out on the mile-long walk from Balboa Pier to Newport Pier via a recreational concrete boardwalk. Along the way, you'll pass 15th Street Beach with its on-the-sand playground, surf shop and snack bar. Newport Pier has more of a wild side than the rest of Newport. The busy boardwalk here is littered with hip restaurants, neighborhood bars, bikini shops and surf equipment stores. You'll also find romantic dining at 21 Oceanfront, and you can even stay overnight at its Doryman's Inn B&B just above.
With Newport Harbor taking up so much of the city's coastline, there's actually little space to enjoy the beach. The shore along Balboa Peninsula is perhaps the most iconic stretch of coastline here with a famed boardwalk starting at 36th Street and going for a couple of miles to The Wedge, a legendary body surfing spot where free-flowing waves and harbor jetty meets for powerful surf. Along the peninsula, the best spots for endless summer activities are near Newport Pier, 15th Street and Balboa Pier. Further south, Newport Coast, Corona Del Mar and Crystal Cove have wide expanses of sand with less crowds, good facilities and a more back-to-nature feel.
For a Hollywood-style evening, fans of the city's annual Newport Beach Film Festival can watch first-run and independent films at the historic Lido Theater. This Art Deco movie house boasts red velvet floor-to-ceiling curtains and walls painted with leaping neon dolphins.
Want to eat where the locals hang? Try out some of Newport's more casual, yet still fine dining havens like Bayside, Bistro Le Crillon, Basilic, Chart House, The Crab Cooker, Modo Mia, Zov's Newport Coast, Sage, Pescadou Bistro, Wildfish Seafood Grille, Rusty Pelican, Wasa Sushi and Yard House.
Since Newport is more suburban hideaway than happening beach town, its sidewalks roll up rather early—although there are some places to party into the wee hours. The restaurant-cum-nightclub trend is evident in such spots as Fury Rock & Roll Sushi Lounge, 3 Thirty 3 Waterfront, Ten Asian Bistro and Landmark Steakhouse. Bar scenes are also big at Yard House, Javier's, Mastro's Ocean Club, Fleming's, Blue Coral and French 75. An older crowd heads over to the bar at The Ritz or Duke's Place at The Balboa Bay Club for dancing to jazz favorites. In neighboring Costa Mesa, OC's nightclub scene sizzles at Sutra Lounge, where well-dressed guys and girls dance and party with everyone from Hollywood A-listers to hip hop stars.
Continue to Day 2 |
