A
Kasbah for a Sheik
Dramatic Death Valley
Death
Valley has usurped its name. The early pioneers of 1849,
who in quest of a shortcut from Utah to California became
trapped in the desert for five weeks, eventually made
it out safely.
These 3.4 million desolated acres,
where "white gold" was found in form of borax, was used in
the past as a detergent and promoted in the '50s by Ronald
Reagan. Borax-Borax is not Bora-Bora, but if you succumb
to something here, it will most likely be your ecstasy
before the sublime beauty and grandeur of this national
monument, originally protected as a national monument
in 1933 and dedicated as the nation's largest national
park in 1994.
Through
the passes that sneak into the Valley and along the road
that winds on its floor below sea level, the mineral enchantment
never stops. The changing colors, reach their peak at
the Artist's Pallette. The rocks, have been tamed in places
by the millenniums, while in others they are still sharp and jagged. The mighty mountains, snow capped even in late spring, the
undulating dunes (Dune Point), the abrupt canyons (Titus
Canyon, Mosaic Canyon), the devastated craters (Ubehebe
Crater) and the sense of emptiness arouses even the most
blasé of travelers. And then, a miracle (not a mirage):
unexpected water ignites life. Aridity (humidity here
is close to zero percent), this hostile element, plays
its role in the magnitude of this spectacle, which liberates
from the throat spontaneous
oohs and aahs
and procures
a good approach to the perception of eternity.
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Although
no one has duplicated his vision, it is understandable
that in 1925, Albert Johnson, a wealthy and somewhat mysterious Chicagoan
decided to build a sumptuous château here in the middle
of nowhere (Scotty's Castle), where he would spend the rest of his life. Not much imagination is needed to feel as if you have been propelled
onto another planet, which explains why Star Wars was shot here.
The
conclusion (or the beginning) of the exploration of these
natural wonders will naturally take place at the Furnace
Creek Inn. Spending a night in this oasis planted with Deglet-Nour date palm trees
from Algeria, is like reading a chapter of the Arabian
Nights tales. This mission-style structure, which on
the flank of the mountain is evocative with its adobe walls
of a Moorish kasbah, opened in 1927 and has retained the
atmosphere of this era. Renovations in 1997 introduced creature
comforts to the 66 rooms but did not alter the inn's charm, secluded in the desert and seemingly fit
for a sheikh.
Pure
hot mineral water flows constantly into the landmark
swimming pool. Playing golf on a court at an elevation below sea level is
an experience, for the ball has strange reactions
at this altitude.
But
sitting quietly to watch the sun cast its last
rays in the palms and the sky fill with stars, soothes the nerves for weeks to come. Following this unique experience, it's time for less ethereal satisfactions
in the spacious and relaxing dining room. A solid
menu is presented in harmony with the location based
on prime ingredients. Why not try a rattlesnake taco
for a starter? Crunchy, spicy, with an unusual texture,
this is the right food—not to be found everywhere—for
a desert explorer. Environmentalists will be happy
to know these are farm animals.
There's a slight hint of the exotic in the traditional and well-executed
entrées. We enjoyed a sweet touch of fig in the pork tenderloin,
a melt-in-the-mouth filet of beef with purple mashed
potatoes and savory lamb chops accompanied by a tasty rosemary
risotto. The unpretentious wine list offers good options
at reasonable prices. You are prepared for a peaceful night
after a bit more stargazing on your walk to your room.
The
Furnace Creek
Inn is open mid-October until mid-May. There are plenty of activities to choose from including tennis, golf and horseback or carriage
riding. If you choose to be frugal with your energy, there
is a lot to sightsee in the vicinity: Zabriskie Point,
Golden Canyon, Artist's Drive... If you visit during warmer
months, don't forget to drink a gallon of water a day
as you roam the valley. (That is on top of a glass of
Chardonnay at the bar when you return in the
evening).
More casual accommodation can be found at the nearby Furnace
Creek Ranch which remains open when the Inn is closed (June through September). Be sure to take a dip in the Ranch's swimming pool, which underwent a major upgrade in 2006. The ranch has a relaxed Western ambience and is situated near the Borax
Museum. An even more bucolic stay can be found at the Stovepipe
Wells Ranch.
 Going to California? Check out our guide |
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