THE BISHOP'S LODGE
The Early French Paradox

In the mid-17th century, the Vatican wanted the newly annexed territory of New Mexico to be supervised by a smart and strong representative. The established padres seem to enjoy—a bit too much—what would become the City Different. Tales of loose conduct generated the transfer of the French Father Jean Baptiste Lamy from Cincinnati to Santa Fe, in the process of creating a provisional diocese know as the vicariate apostolic of New Mexico. Bishop Lamy's journey took him from Ohio to St. Louis, down the Mississippi to New Orleans, onto a boat to Galveston and up the Rio Grande river valley, arriving at his new home a year later! (That does not leave us much room to complain when our flight is half hour late today.) More details about the Bishop's mission can be found in Willa Cather's 1927 novel Death Comes for the Archbishop. In the 1860s Bishop Lamy purchased for $80 what became his home and is now 420 acres of a family and business retreat known as the Bishop's Lodge.

These days the best way to get to the lodge is to drive a good hour north of Albuquerque's Sunport, the only major airport in the area. Once you get there, the multiplicity of activities will challenge you. Just like its namesake did with local churches and schools, the Bishop's Lodge has consistently reinvented itself over the course of time.

Several owners later, this luxurious camp provides all the creature comforts, and planning has begun for a massive spa project. Taking into account the natural surroundings, history and careful maintenance of the site, without discounting the original chapel in which weddings are still performed today, you get a bundle of charm with friendly service.

Recently built is the Vista Valle lodge, offering new accommodations high up on the hill with killer views—especially at dawn and dusk. Rates range from $129-249 for single occupancy and $469-709 for double occupancy, depending on the season. Fully appointed rooms and suites in pueblo-style casitas with large patios make perfect abodes for your purification escape.

Medium-sized refrigerators are kept empty instead of being filled as useless mini-bars, allowing you to store any food you brought and avoid it being eaten by bears, should you leave it in your car. And yes, one can see bears and rabbits, listen to the coyotes, hear of mountain lions and smell the trace of skunks.

The addition of a 4,200-sq-ft versatile and magnificent meeting space, combined with 111 rooms set in 15 separate lodges designed in varied styles, make the lodge an interesting meeting facility in this natural setting.

One last word of advice: should you plan on playing tennis, be sure to pack your "high-altitude" balls-at 7,000 feet they bounce much better than standard balls.