The Dutch Awards

The Dutch Restaurant Review:

Andrew Carmellini first started amassing followers at A Voce, then under the roof of The Greenwich Hotel with Locanda Verde. You can tell he felt a bit stifled because of the freedom and whimsy with which he's creating food at his SoHo spot, The Dutch. The space can seem manic and intimidating, but you'll find it’s an organized chaos in the three distinct eating areas: a back dining room, the oyster bar room and the bar room. Service, for such a crowded and bustling place, is attentive. A warm loaf of jalapeño cornbread is delivered once you've ordered. It would be smart to begin with offerings from the raw bar, or with snack-like starters such as Wagyu beef tartare and sweet potato tempura. Black sea bass with bok choy and lemongrass is simple yet refined. Carmellini does his best work with the gamier meats like duck, which he smokes in hay and serves with cranberry mostarda and rutabaga. And the fried chicken, juicy on the inside with an ultra-crispy skin, is among the best in the city. If you saved room for dessert, look no further than the daily-changing pie. The wine list is long and serious, with several bottles priced in four-digit territory, and a handful of wines are offered by the glass.