THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Bolla

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Bolla Restaurant Review:

Bolla, which means “bull” in Italian, occupies a fetching space in the historic Stoneleigh Hotel & Spa. It is simultaneously eclectic and elegant, with transparent fabrics subtly partitioning the tables, striking geometric chandeliers illuminating the room and oversize oxidized letters from the hotel's original rooftop signage tacked to the walls. Diners can choose from the à la carte menu or a three-, six- or nine-course prix-fixe tasting menu (chef David Bull has departed the restaurant). Start with thin slices of bufala mozzarella topped with a basil gelée or the densely stacked and molded beef tartare. A second course of pan-seared sea scallops, tucked between layers of scallop mousse and straddling a heap of spinach bathing in brown butter, was lukewarm, but the scallops were nicely seared. Smoked pork belly, cured and braised for 24 hours, is paired with diavolo sauce and mozzarella gelato---a sidekick that may be an acquired taste. The beef tenderloin, capped with black truffle aïoli, caramelized onions and fried tobacco onions, is a stand-out in a city overrun with meat palaces. But the highlight of the meal could very well be the moist Ligurian lemon cake with its balanced marriage of tart and sweet flavors. Service can feel a bit rushed, but the waitstaff is knowledgeable.