: Ethan Stowell once again taps into the local zeitgeist, opening a gastropub where most of the eight beers on draft are brewed within walking distance. The bottled beers and wines are more far-ranging, featuring an eclectic and worldwide collection. The Ballard Avenue space boasts a gleaming walnut bar, rustic brick walls, and large windows looking onto the street scene. The menu takes pub food seriously in the culinary sense, but keeps things casual. For example, the burger has no special extras, but the quality of meat, potato bun and secret sauce make it exceptional. A few dishes deviate from standard pub fare, usually when area ingredients turn up the cooking a notch: albacore crudo, fried oysters in the style of hot wings, and Dungeness crab dip. Even desserts, such as the pecan crostada with hard sauce, employ elements of traditional tavern foods, but always seasoned with Stowell's Northwest sentiments.

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