THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED The Cosmopolitan

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED The Cosmopolitan Restaurant Review:

Steven Levine came west to open Freestyle in Sonoma for restaurateur Drew Nieporent after an illustrious career in New York working with chefs Charlie Palmer and David Bruce. Now, he can be illustrious at The Cosmopolitan. We really enjoy his sweet corn and clam chowder, redolent of bacon and bits of fingerling potatoes; another good starter is the crisp calamari and artichoke fritto misto served with a lemon-basil aïoli. The no-frills entrées are satisfying. Try the hanger steak with crispy fries, garlic-sautéed spinach and Zinfandel-poached onions; another good choice is the pan-roasted chicken with feta polenta, roasted peppers and preserved lemon adding zing. The desserts are just as straightforward, like the peach tarte Tatin or Mama Levine's warm chocolate cookies.