The County Line

The County Line Restaurant Review:

Though there are much more serious pit stops on the barbecue trail, few are more widely appealing than this longstanding link in an Austin, Texas-based chain. Located at the base of the Sandia Peak Tramway, it’s basically a cross between a boozy roadhouse and a family-friendly sit-down, serving up piles of meat with all the trimmings as well as Southern and Southwestern variations thereon, from chicken-fried steak to green chile-stuffed pork loin. While the ribs are decent, they’re surprisingly outdone by first-rate smoked turkey, chicken and sausage; for a change of pace, there’s even duck and prime rib. House-made bread costs extra but can’t be beat for sopping up the last smears of sauce. As for sides, skip the fries in favor of garlic-smashed potatoes. And since beer is the liquid refreshment of choice, it’s nice to see that the selection on tap features local and regional microbrews. Surprisingly, the kitchen also makes its own vanilla ice cream for a soothingly simple end to an over-the-top dinner.