di Paolo

di Paolo Restaurant Review:

Consistency in the restaurant world is a tough assignment, but one that di Paolo manages to execute with professional style every time we visit. The large painting of an old monk digging into his humble bowl of pasta sets the stage at this modern, intimate suburban Italian restaurant. Waiting couples linger around a busy bar, striking up conversation with seatmates or solo diners. The noise level enables conversation, a welcome relief from so many deafening dining environments these days. Chef-turned-restaurateur Darin Hiebel and his wife, Susan Tucker, have kept faith with the "from scratch" dictum, which includes the house-made, crisp addictive bread sticks and even the mozzarella. We like the classic margherita pizza, its slightly chewy crust requires one to savor every last crumb. The lineup of mostly house-made pastas may be ordered in half portions, a serving so generous in itself that many patrons order half portions as entrées or share one as an appetizer. Gnocchi and lasagna are stars on the pasta menu, but none has ever disappointed. Veal dishes, lamb, fish --- name it and it's nicely executed; branzino no matter how it's prepared is a standout. Desserts change as does the rest of the menu, and all are made in-house. Get the Italian cream cheesecake, presented with different embellishments from time to time. Good value, mostly Italian wines command the wine list, which presents a substantial selection by the glass, and $50 or less will snag you a fine bottle. Or bring a special one; the corkage fee is $25. The serious reserve list is worth a look, and there are half bottles as well.