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di Paolo Restaurant Review: The modern interior is intimate and nicely lit, and the dining room is focused on a large painting of an old monk digging into his humble bowl of pasta. Waiting couples linger around a busy, small bar, striking up conversation with seatmates or with solo diners. Chef turned restaurateur Darin Hiebel and his fiancée, Susan Tucker, bought this decade-plus-old establishment and raised the bar in a number of areas. A selection of small plates adds interest, notably the house-cured duck prosciutto, here served with Gorgonzola and local honeycomb. We like the free-form lasagna of braised duck: well-flavored meat rests between two sheets of thin pasta. The line-up of mostly house-made pastas may be ordered in half portions, a serving so generous in itself that many patrons order half portions as entrées. Veal dishes, lamb, fish---name it and it's nicely done. All are prepared with an Italian spirit. Desserts change as does the rest of the menu, and all are made in-house. The winner may be the Italian cream cheesecake with fresh fruits and a vanilla-almond sorbet. Good value, mostly Italian wines command the wine list, which presents a substantial selection by the glass, and $35 or less will snag you a good bottle. Check the reverse side to opt for something from the very serious reserve list.