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di Paolo Restaurant Review: A large painting of an old monk digging into his humble bowl of pasta sets the stage at this modern, intimate suburban Italian restaurant. Waiting couples linger around a busy bar, striking up conversation with seatmates or solo diners. Chef-turned-restaurateur Darin Hiebel and his wife, Susan Tucker, have kept faith with authenticity and quality. "From scratch" is the ruling mantra, including the addictive bread sticks. We like the classic margherita pizza, its slightly chewy crust requires one to savor every last crumb. The line-up of mostly house-made pastas may be ordered in half portions, a serving so generous in itself that many patrons order half portions as entrées. Veal dishes, lamb, fish --- name it and it's nicely done; branzino wrapped in caul fat is a stand-out. Desserts change as does the rest of the menu, and all are made in-house. The winner may be the Italian cream cheesecake, presented with different embellishments from time to time. Good value, mostly Italian wines command the wine list, which presents a substantial selection by the glass, and $50 or less will snag you a good bottle. The serious reserve list is worth a look, and there are half bottles as well. The noise level enables conversation, a welcome relief from so many deafening dining environments these days.