THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Entente

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Entente Restaurant Review:

About the restaurant: This upscale modern American restaurant moved from its Lakeview location to River North, and the new site will allow the team to leverage a larger kitchen and front-of-the-house area. The eatery makes a big impression with its well-edited menu of seasonal, shareable plates driven by chef Brian Fisher (formerly of Schwa).

About the food: A solo buttermilk biscuit sports a flaky center and is served with a side of seasonal butter, the perfect opener to a substantial kale Caesar modernized by the addition of smelt, fried capers and charred lemon. For savory lovers, the salt-meets-more-salt isn’t too overpowering and a welcome enhancement to a restaurant staple. Carolina Gold rice, perched in the center of an oversize bowl, packs creamy richness in every bite of black truffle, duck egg and Parmigiano. Mains deliver on their promise of bold flavors. The simply titled Duck arrives with most bites layered with unagi, chrysanthemum, watermelon rind and burdock and toothsome forbidden rice. Pappardelle is a pile of surprises laced with shaved radishes, avocado, San Marzano tomatoes, lime and Brussels sprouts. Delicate desserts include the tres leches cake and a large profiterole with sour cherries and sassafras ice cream.

About the drinks: While reserve wines are available, the beer and cocktail program is the star, featuring local breweries such as Metropolitan Brewing and Whiner Beer Co.