Fly-N-Fish Oyster Bar & Grill

Fly-N-Fish Oyster Bar & Grill Restaurant Review:

This intimate restaurant is tucked away on the far west end of the Balboa Peninsula’s bustling Newport Pier, and its exposed-brick-wall dining space is cozy. The quality of the seafood justifies dealing with the area’s summertime coastal crowds. Executive chef Julio Hawkins brings technical skill and a knack for balanced flavor to his dishes, which allows him to gently nudge the boundaries of the menu without going overboard. For starters, we recommend the spicy tequila-sautéed calamari and the creamy New England clam chowder. Hawkins’ ability to create complex yet approachable food is found throughout the entrées, which feature plates like salmon with a sesame, soy and ginger glaze and macadamia-crusted halibut with roasted fennel and Grand Marnier fumet. Classic mains such as fresh fish and chips and cioppino are also executed with precision. Desserts are given the same kind of attention, best highlighted by the warm banana chocolate bread pudding. Round out the meal with a nice cocktail, a glass of wine or a draft beer, although the latter’s selection could take better advantage of the local craft brew scene.