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1400 Sixth Ave. Send to Phone

Dinner Mon.-Sat.

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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Fullers Restaurant Review

: Fullers is about as sexy as a pin-striped suit, albeit a suit elegantly cut out of fine cloth, and that’s the sort of the dining experience you can expect in the Sheraton Hotel’s elegantly understated fine dining venue. Most of the visual stimulation in this taupe-on-beige room---with with its soothing fountain and intimate curved booths---comes from a sizeable collection of Northwest art, including a private enclave filled with Chihuly glass. Weeknights you may find the room populated by business types, many of them hotel guests, more than a few dining alone. After a succession of high-profile, female chefs, Fullers anointed Tom Black executive chef. Like his predecessors, he makes creative use of Northwest ingredients and an international palette of flavors. Unlike them, there’s not a hint of flamboyance, even in dishes like crab cakes daubed with Asian-spiced aioli resting in a puddle of carrot cinnamon oil. We found the sinfully rich pairing of sea scallops and chevre spaetzle in a buttery wine sauce resistible only because the spaetzle was disappointingly mushy and bland, however, rabbit three ways (bone-in, loin, sausage) sauced in an alluring rabbit jus captured our fancy completely, as did Chilean sea bass in a delicate mushroom ragout. Desserts are downright dazzling, especially vanilla-roasted pineapple tarte tatin with rosemary ice cream and a bittersweet chocolate dome with halvah at its heart and citrus syrup at its feet. Service is top-notch too, but the perfunctory wine list doesn’t do justice to the creativity of the menu.


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