: The cookie-cutter plaza neighbors are immediately forgotten upon entering Guantanamera. Wall-size photos of Cuban life can’t replace the lack of ocean, but they do set the tone for a Cuban cultural experience. It’s hard to resist a ceviche or empanada starter, even knowing the main courses are generous portions. Cuban classics like ropa vieja, slow-cooked shredded beef in a menagerie of spices, and lechon asado, slow-roasted pulled pork in a garlicky-citrus marinade, are worth repeat visits in their own right. But if you are able to resist, it’s worth venturing off-staple to the mariscada Cubana, a paella-like dish with squid, octopus, shrimp, crab, tilapia and mussels. The seemingly simple arroz con pollo a la Cubana makes one wonder what magic is done to make rice so decadent. More likely than magic is the tradition behind Cuban chef-owner Iskander Gener’s family recipes. An equal draw for many are the Cuban cocktails, which go beyond mojitos (though the mojitos are first-rate).

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