THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED The House

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED The House Restaurant Review:

Formerly The English House, the menu is more English than ever now it’s part of the restaurant group owned by Richard Corrigan (of Lindsay House fame). Chef/patron Graham Garrett works in a style similar to Corrigan’s, which might just as well be called rus in urbe, bringing as it does a bit of the country into city cooking. The décor, however, has not changed, so there are still flower-patterned, fabric-covered walls and all that goes with it, which either grows on you or irritates you; this may evolve or it may not change at all. Either way, the cooking is just where it should be---gutsy, flavourful food informed by a refined sensibility. Don’t you just love a paradox. The menu changes frequently but recent hits included goose rillettes with tomato and onion chutney; cold poached skate, potato, parsley and caper salad. Mains run to roast rump of lamb and balsamic roasted red onions; and a real winner in ballotine of pheasant, confit of belly pork with fondant potato (is Alain Ducasse reading this?) and black pudding-stuffed apple. Good cheeses, worthwhile desserts, well-chosen wines and service organised by Dieter Jurgensen cannot be faulted. Set 3-course lunch £14.50; 3-course dinner £21.