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8515 Starcrest Dr. (NE Loop 410) Send to Phone
Kohinoor has burnished its setting a bit but the food retains most of its rough charm.

Lunch & Dinner Tues.-Sun.

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THIS RESTAURANT HAS CHANGED LOCATIONS Kohinoor Restaurant & Grill Restaurant Review

: At Kohinoor, the menu is a document of possibilities, not certainties; on one visit, none of the Pakistani-style samosas was available, and it appeared they might now rarely be on regular rotation. Winds of change were immediately apparent, in any case, in the updated setting: what was previously convenience-store bright is now beige and polite. The various forms of goat that once excited us for their challenging rarity no longer inhabit the now-plasticized menu --- though we hold out hope for daily specials (get there early, as they tend to run out). We will be back nevertheless, though maybe not for the “Indian Burger” combining split peas and beef with tomatoes and tamarind; it was good but not at the must-have-again level. Iron skillet tawa chicken (it’s one of several tawa-style possibilities), however, retained a complex but edgy attitude with its unabashed application of slivered ginger, among other seasonings. Daals, too, remain earthy and spicy with both dried chiles and jalapeños. Kohinoor’s rendition of saag paneer, here prefixed paalak, is equally lusty; it pairs well, as do most dishes, with the house breads: partha, roti and naan. Feel free to order any and all.


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