Lan Larb SoHo

Lan Larb SoHo Restaurant Review:

From a Thai chef who has spent time in the kitchens of Chao Thai in Queens and Zabb Elee in the East Village, Lan Larb serves the cuisine of Isaan, located in northeastern Thailand. The menu is filled with incendiary fare that sometimes works and sometimes doesn’t. Chicken larb, a sort of ground meat salad, is smoky with a bold taste. Curry puffs are flaky and flavorful. But the green papaya salad, a staple of the region, is fire-hot on the palate while managing to be flaccid; it lacks the zest the same dish offers at competing restaurants. Meanwhile, green curry fails to capture the taste buds’ attention. Lan Larb is a good dining option if you’re in the area and need an Isaan food fix. Otherwise, seek out some of the chef’s former workplaces. The restaurant does not serve alcohol.