Le Saint-Paul

Le Saint-Paul Restaurant Review:

Olivier Borloo made the right choice when he set up shop in this sixteenth-century house in the heart of town--his exquisite renovations and the flowery terrace on the edge of the ramparts make this a madly charming place to slide down a midsummer night's meal. The menu has a decidedly Mediterranean bent: zucchini stuffed with smoked tuna and mozzarella, roasted free-range guinea fowl supreme, foie gras escalopine, apple grenaille and green asparaguses, and chocolate surprise (three mousse quenelles of white, dark, and milk chocolate milk served on a praline cookie). Handsome selection of cheeses, ready and willing service (but sometimes overworked), and prestigious wine. The house is lovely--fireplace in the drawing room, collection of ceramic barbotines.