: The very first item on the menu sets the tone for a devil-may-care meal: it’s an upscale version of poutine, potato frites topped with foie gras gravy, garlic-infused cheese curds and sweet peas. The double-patty burger on a bacon bun is a longtime local favorite, as is the creamy polenta with a family ragù recipe. Bison carpaccio and house-cured charcuterie showcase the chefs’ skill with local meats; they’re equally adept at comfort food like the “pot liquor yard bird,” a roasted spatchcocked chicken with grits and greens. Desserts are along the lines of maple-bacon bread pudding with apple butter ice cream. The team behind the bar includes industry heavy-hitters with a light touch when it comes to house-made tinctures and bitters. Beers are mostly local and all craft; wines include boutique bottles from New York to Israel and Hungary.

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