Meadowsweet

Meadowsweet Restaurant Review:

When Dressler restaurant closed, there was a collective groan in Williamsburg that reached across the bridge to Manhattan. Happily, a former chef of that establishment, Polo Dobkin, has reinvented the space, and is bringing farm-to-table fare so close to home that there’s even a hydroponic herb garden over the doorway. The 1880s tile floor is pretty much the only remnant of the old place, giving way to a room done in colors found in nature and using recycled wood. Start with nibbles like crispy artichokes dressed with a creamy garlic sauce or scallop ceviche. Black sea bass and day boat swordfish are both moist and crisp, and carnivores will appreciate the barbecued St. Louis ribs, which are bourbon-basted. Dobkin’s wife frequently travels to the family farm in Hudson Valley, and the inspirations from her trips show up in the herb-infused dishes and cocktails. The extensive wine list skews European with some good by-the-glass options.