 Oliveto Restaurant Review: Oliveto's inspired Italian fare is rustic in spirit and elegant in execution. Owner Bob Klein is firmly committed to house-made, one-hundred-percent whole-grain pastas made with California-grown grains. This dedication shows in such dishes as red winter wheat penne alla bolognese. Charcuterie demonstrates the kitchen’s grace and restraint; the most successful offerings are often the simplest. Executive chef Jonah Rhodehamel's special dinners include one devoted to the “whole hog,” others highlighting tomatoes and truffles, and a summertime week of "Oceanic Dinners" showcasing sustainable seafood like lobster sausage, Quahog clam chowder and lumache pasta with smoked clams in cream sauce. These meals book well in advance, but they’re worth the effort. Desserts are seasonal, such as blood orange sorbetto and almond frangipane-ruby red grapefruit tart with mascarpone. Oliveto's wine list spotlights Italian and California labels including obscure older Italian wines through its Wine in Time program. For guests who crave a more casual experience, Oliveto Café downstairs serves simple salads, pizzas and charcuterie plates.
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