THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED The Pan American

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED The Pan American Restaurant Review:

After an initial backfire when it opened (that is, an actual fire in the building), this NoLIta restaurant got a reboot with a new chef and even more gusto than before. Talented toque Harry Stoehr, who logged time in the kitchen at db bistro moderne, cooks dishes from up and down the Americas and does an admirable job. Refreshing heirloom tomato gazpacho is both tangy (thanks to watermelon) and slightly spicy (due to threads of chile), while chimichurri-encrusted steak is a sensation of taste strata. The menu also includes chunky guacamole, variations on the theme of ceviche, and cheese-stuffed jalapeños. There are several house cocktails and the wine, naturally, hails mostly from the same region as the cuisine.