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1800 N. Lincoln Ave. (Clark St.) Send to Phone
An approachable, modern American bistro with green market sensibility from Paul Virant and the Boka boys.

Breakfast Mon.-Fri., Dinner nightly, Brunch Sat.-Sun.

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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Perennial Virant, Chicago, IL

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Perennial Virant Restaurant Review

: Yes, Perennial Virant is located directly across the street from Lincoln Park --- but that wasn’t the inspiration for its green-sounding name. Owners Rob Katz and Kevin Boehm, who are also behind Boka, GT Fish & Oyster and Girl & the Goat, found the moniker for their restaurant in one of their favorite wines. Now, it also nods to partner and chef Paul Virant (Vie). Naturally, though, there is a strong sense of seasonality going on here, with Virant making good use of the restaurant’s near-Green City location. As a result, dishes shine, and the inviting, light-strung setting --- all wood-trimmed with vintage mirrors and earthy seating --- does not distract. One visit may yield tender, herbed gnocchi with morel mushrooms, pickled garlic and green curly kale, while another reveals crispy Great Lakes whitefish with smoked onion relish and spinach from Growing Home, or dry-aged beef meatloaf with béarnaise sauce and fried potatoes. What remains constant is the use of both quality ingredients and the chef’s mad pickling and preserving skills. (In other words, expect ramps or blueberries to pop up anytime, even when the streets are blanketed in snow.) Head straight to the lovely patio during warm weather --- it’s a sweet spot to savor Kady Yon’s modern desserts, like Templeton Rye panna cotta with smoked local cherries, puffed rice and crispy sage as well as seasonal cocktails from mixologist Matty Eggleston.
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