THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Quinones at Bacchanalia

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Quinones at Bacchanalia Restaurant Review:

This dramatic space features cutting-edge contemporary fare served on a fixed-price tasting menu basis. Each menu offers eight to ten courses of small portions with the option of wine pairings. Emphasis is not only on seasonal ingredients, but also locally grown materials, some from chef-owners Anne Quatrano and Clifford Harrison's farm near Cartersville, Ga. Surprising tastes are explored, such as lentil chips topped with tuna tartare and raita, a blend of textures and flavors that may sound odd, but work very well. A silky corn custard studded with house-cured pancetta made us try to convince the waiter we'd not yet gotten our portion, so we could have another. But while we appreciated that dish as well as the corn agnolotti with wild mushroom sugo, we did wish corn hadn't appeared in two dishes. Inspired was the potato risotto underlying a pan-seared scallop. Scallops are likely to appear with some imaginative accompaniment, and Georgia quail and trout are heavily favored. In this kitchen, foie gras finds a darling companion in the humble Georgia peanut. On our visit, wine pairings sometimes worked and sometimes didn't. The Hanzell Chardonnay was too heavy and oakey to pair nicely with the scallop, but the Marchesi di Gresy Moscato d'Asti was a good fit with a warm blueberry clafoutis on frozen lemon custard, a study in temperature and textural contrasts. Riesling and Gewürztraminer are often relied on for their pairing abilities, and so is Pinot Noir.