Safta Alon Shaya Pomegranate Hospitality The Source Hotel Safta
The Source Hotel
3330 Brighton Blvd., #201 (35th St.)
Denver, CO 80216
Modern Israeli food from chef Alon Shaya at The Source Hotel.
Openings: Dinner nightly, Brunch Sat.-Sun.


Safta, Denver, CO

Safta Restaurant Review:

About the restaurant & décor: Chef and cookbook author Alon Shaya embraces his cultural heritage --- the foods of his native Israel --- at this contemporary restaurant inside The Source Hotel. Safta is the second project from Pomegranate Hospitality, which Shaya operates with wife and co-restaurateur, Emily Shaya. Bedecked with blush-hued walls, high ceilings, a large exhibition kitchen with wood-burning ovens, fresh orchids propped on the shelves, rose-embossed glassware and walls of windows that peer over the far-reaching city skyline that stretches to the Rocky Mountains, it's a striking performance space that's steeped in avant-garde femininity.

Likes: Soft, feminine décor; lovely presentations and remarkably good hummus and pita bread.
Dislikes: On busy evenings, service can be agonizingly slow and disorganized.

About the food: Safta, which means “grandmother” in Hebrew, is an ode to modern Israeli cooking --- an homage that struts memorable variations of hummus, one of which involves blue crab meat, fresh mint, sweet corn and a jolt of lemon. Share tabouleh, spiked with toasted almonds; lutenitsa, a stewed dish of roasted eggplant, peppers, tomato and garlic; or a Moroccan carrot salad with crispy lentils. The house-baked pita bread, inflated and lightly charred, doubles as a blank canvas for several plates, and while it's all too easy to fill up on the fresh-baked, slow-risen bread, practice restraint and you'll be rewarded with harissa roasted chicken, duck matzo ball soup and lovely falafel, misshapen spheres specked with Middle Eastern spices and herbs. Desserts include a squash babka and a progressive labneh cheesecake festooned with orange blossom candied nuts and pomegranate caramel.

About the drinks: The beverage syllabus proffers beers, ciders, cocktails like the The Fig Picture concocted with bourbon, fig, byrrh, lemon and egg, as well as wines from Greece, Israel and Lebanon.

Sapaio toscana 2019

GAYOT´s Wine of the Week is an Italian red wine made with Sapaia grapes, an ancient Tuscan varietal. Read the article. (Photo @soniadeboniph)