Steel Magnolias

Steel Magnolias Restaurant Review:

After years of cooking across the country and finally returning to her native state with a stint in Atlanta, Valdosta-born Keira Moritz bought and renovated a historic building in downtown Valdosta. At Steel Magnolias, Moritz shows her reverence for Southern food. Tray after tray of deviled eggs bursting with mounded rich yolk stuffing are prepared daily for catering gigs, as well as for service in the restaurant. They're hard to resist, but we also like starting with the individual cast-iron pot of mussels steamed in anisette cream. Sweet, clean and plump, these beauties are perfectly cooked, and the hint of licorice from the anisette is ideally nuanced. We've enjoyed the confit of duck, paired with locally produced Gayla's grits. The same grits accompany a whole bronzino, but then fish and grits are traditional in South Georgia. Three steaks and a double-cut pork chop will keep the carnivores contented. Sweet potato gnocchi, house-made of course, are a delectable variation on the dumplings theme, flecked with Gorgonzola and walnuts. It's just one of several vegetarian-friendly options. For dessert, banana pudding married to crème brûlée or the coconut rum cake, a Southern classic, are good choices. The short, smart wine list roams the globe, but we like the well-chosen craft brews, too.