Trattoria Pulcinella

Trattoria Pulcinella Restaurant Review:

This humble neighborhood trattoria looks the part, with its wood-beamed ceiling and hanging plants and garlic strings. It also acts the part, with some quirks that are par for the course in Italy but can startle Americans: for instance, the tables are so jammed together that your waiter often has to reach over and around patrons, and service in general can be a little lax. On the other hand, the bold food reminds you just how charming quirks can be. Pungency is Pulcinella’s specialty; from shellfish-based punch-packers like panzanella with octopus and salt-cod “carpaccio” with raisins, pine nuts and anchovies to fresh cheese ravioli with burnt garlic and walnuts to regional classics like Venetian-style liver and onions, every dish shows real spunk. At meal's end, the kitchen even shows its North End counterparts a thing or two by making a fine espresso and a handful of desserts.