THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED West County Grill

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED West County Grill Restaurant Review:

Much hullabaloo accompanied the launch of West County Grill, backed by NYC restaurateurs and Chez Panisse alums. The restaurant’s compass logo seems apt: it symbolizes the intention to make a culinary mark on almost off-the-grid Sebastopol, and it reflects commitment to local ingredients. The brick-walled space has an industrial feel, underscored by raging embers from the hulking open kitchen’s wood grill. Some dishes hit the mark: dandelion salad with fried egg and anchovy dressing, or oysters on the half shell with just-sweet mignonette sauce (though three oyster varieties hardly a raw bar make). But there’s a need for recalibration. Neither starters nor entrées hint at their woody firings. Grilled hanger steak, cooked properly, wades unappealingly in an olive oil pool, while black cod tastes over-slicked in orange oil essence. Spicy Dungeness crab should come with a courtesy warning; it’s halved, requiring cracking and a technical mindset. This may reflect the consistently behind the eight-ball service. Surprisingly boring platings match the monochromatic prints on the walls, and even a potentially cute plastic-bagged ice cream panettone sandwich tastes too frozen. A smart wine list reflects worldly sensibilities.