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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Albert's Provence Restaurant Review: Lingering for hours over dinner just isn't part of the Florida Panhandle culture, particularly in the dine-and-dash political-educational corridors of Tallahassee. But at Albert's Provence, even the most harried locals forget their watches. This food, kissed by the sun and seasoned by chef Albert Ughetto's globe-hopping career, is meant to be savored. Ughetto creates seafood dishes that are at once complex and pure. Red snapper stuffed with lump crab meat and peppers over a light, creamy seafood reduction sauce ties with the grouper Provençale---complete with spinach and lobster medallions---for memorable entrées. Turf lovers might prefer fork-tender steaks or pink-centered rack of lamb, cut into tiny chops and fanned over earthy, coarse mashed potatoes. Game dishes might include quail, pheasant or duck in rich bordelaise. For dessert, try the unusual, delicate Gateau a l'Orange or the sinfully rich banana cream pie with raspberries and white chocolate. Service is professional, knowledgeable and perfectly choreographed.