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Allen & Son Restaurant Review: Connoisseurs may debate whether Keith Allen’s barbecue represents eastern or western Carolina ’cue, but no one disputes its tastiness, worth driving miles to this unpretentious cinder-block building between Chapel Hill and Hillsborough. The meat is cooked all day over hickory: pork shoulder slow smoked and anointed with a peppery vinegar-based sauce with just a hint of tomato. You may order your barbecue chopped in a sandwich or “pulled” on a plate with traditional North Carolina hushpuppies, peppery homemade slaw and your choice of Brunswick stew or home-cooked vegetables. Non-meat eaters can order decently fried catfish. Traditional Southern pies --- lemon, pecan and coconut chess --- are made in-house from Allen’s mother’s recipes. Service comes with a big Carolina smile. No alcohol is served. Dinner ends at 8 p.m.