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Allen & Son Restaurant Review: Pitmaster Keith Allen’s cross between eastern and western Carolina ’cue is worth driving far out of your way to this unpretentious cinder-block building between Chapel Hill and Hillsborough. As it should be, the meat is cooked all day over hickory: pork shoulder slow smoked and anointed with a peppery vinegar-based sauce with just a hint of tomato. You may order your barbecue chopped in a sandwich or “pulled” on a plate with hushpuppies (the traditional accompaniment to barbecue in North Carolina), freshly made peppery homemade slaw and your choice of old-fashioned Brunswick stew or home-cooked vegetables. Non-meat eaters may order decently fried catfish. Traditional Southern pies --- lemon, pecan and coconut chess --- are made in-house from Allen’s mother’s recipes. Service in this plain, bright green dining room comes with a big Carolina smile. No alcohol is served, but the sweet tea is delicious. Dinner closes at 8 p.m.