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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Anokha Restaurant & Lounge Restaurant Review: When this family-owned mainstay relocated from its former cramped Commodore Plaza location to far larger digs (with an adjoining Peacock Lounge bar), chef Bhavesh Patel took the opportunity to modernize the menu. And his Indian-American fusion inventions are major fun for grazers: cold "naan-wiches" and "warm naaninis" with Indian-spiced potato chips; spicy crab and lobster cakes with sriracha aïoli dipping sauce. But innovation is not always an improvement. Of Anokha's flaky-crusted samosas, a filling of traditional saag paneer (spinach and yogurt cheese) works, while a pairing of glazed duck and Brie is just weird. And while the sliced, boneless chicken breast in a re-invented chicken makkhani doubtless makes it more appealing to palates favoring American convenience over flavor (the dish traditionally has on-the-bone chicken pieces), both taste and texture fall flat. A wiser alternative for fans of India's rich butter-cream sauces: paneer makkani, featuring homemade Indian cheese. Actually, most of Anokha's traditional Indian vegetarian dishes remain relative strong points.