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Arnaud's Restaurant Review: Arnaud’s occupies much of the block of Bienville Street as a maze of spaces, but the lofty, early nineteenth-century main dining room, with its huge expanse of etched, leaded glass, is the place to be. Guests routinely spend three hours at the table as if nothing else mattered. Swiftly moving tuxedo-clad waiters glide along the patterned ceramic-tile floors; they bear pots of café brûlot emitting blue flames and the aroma of citrus, liqueur and spices. The chef is as adept with seafood (the pompano en croûte is singular) as he is with meats (we suggest the sweetbreads). The signature Shrimp Arnaud --- giant prawns served cold with a spicy rémoulade sauce --- vie for attention with another Arnaud's creation: oysters Bienville, baked with green onions, herbs and seasonings in a white wine sauce. Airy pommes de terre soufflés --- oblong bubbles of fried potato --- make glorious munching over an apéritif. Classic Creole sauces, enriched with cream, wine or both, flow freely. Elaborate desserts include Strawberries Arnaud, marinated in port, red wine and spices and topped with Angelo Brocato’s ice cream. A restaurant of Arnaud’s caliber deserves a long, well-constructed wine list such as this one. Service is polished and attentive. The glossy-wood French 75 bar offers a fine selection of cigars and liqueurs. First-timers will want to tour the Mardi Gras Museum upstairs.