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Atchafalaya Restaurant Review: Locals had been eating at Café Atchafalaya for decades, but when Tony Tocco took it over and renamed it simply Atchafalaya, he breathed new life into the space, giving the interior a distinctive, contemporary but understated look, and two dining rooms. Chef Chris Lynch governs the tiny kitchen --- and we do mean tiny --- and continues its tradition, meaning producing the signature shrimp and creamy grits. And the boudin-stuffed quail, sautéed redfish and a distinctive Yukon Gold potato gnocchi will likely remain unchanged. The surprisingly complex wine list covers all the important bases for a good Creole meal. The best evidence is the more than a dozen Pinot Noirs that complement the full-flavored cuisine. Among desserts, the most authentic New Orleans experience is the smooth red velvet cake. At brunch, egg dishes with fresh lump crab meat are the best bet, but only after you prepare your own Bloody Mary at the self-service table. Tocco’s high energy personality and his well-trained staff make this a delightful find.