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Athens on 4th Ave. Restaurant Review: Athens has been a staple of the Fourth Avenue scene since 1993. But unlike most of the other dining and shopping establishments on "The Ave," where hip and funky rule, this is an elegant, sedate, white tablecloth kind of place. An entire evening could focus on the appetizers alone. Try the taramosalata on a slash of pita bread; a heap of roasted red peppers features salty cheeses with sweet balsamic. Avgolemono soup is silky and light. And if you’re trying to impress your guests, the tiri saganki, a flaming cheese presentation, is the way to go. On the entrée side, the braised lamb shank, fork tender and savory, shouldn’t be missed. There are plenty of other classic Greek dishes, too, including dolmathes, spanakopita and pastitsio. The wine list offers a selection of fine Greek bottles.